Get in Hot Water at Hot Springs National Park

October 2016 was our 7th year staying at the Arlington Hotel to experience the "taking of the waters." I have wrote about these regular health and spa trips before in this blog - the local events, gardens,  attractions and things to do in the area just a six hours drive south from our home.  Use the key word "Hot Springs" in the Search tool to the right if you want to see more.  

Traveling by car takes about six hours on Scenic 7 through some winding and mountainous areas.  There are some nice places to stop and enjoy.  To save time, especially on the way home, we take US 65 most of the way. 

This year was a national election year full of dirty politics, foul language, character flaws and overall nastiness.  It seemed appropriate to write about the main attraction to Hot Springs...the healing waters.  It's about a national park where everyone can come together equally to enjoy a great natural resource.  It's about the history of how early Native Americans rival tribes came here in peace together, people of color had access to the same flow of hot water to drink and bath as whites, competitive gangsters gathered cautiously together to heal from wounds from each other relating to the bootlegging business.

In more recent years, people still come for rest and relaxation.  Many anecdotes attribute healing and good health to the special hot spring water. Yes, it is a very positive, almost magical area!  Yes, it is protected!  The National Park Service sends thermal water from Hot Springs Mountain to five bathing facilities:  the Buckstaff and Quapaw on Bathhouse Row and three hotels, the Arlington, the Austin, and the Springs.  The average temp is 143 degrees which is cooled down for use in bathing.  

History:  Documents show that American Indians knew about and bathed in the hot springs during the late 1700s and early 1800s and that their ancestors may have know about the healing qualities.  Some say that waring tribes would even come together in peace to share this special place.  It wasn't long before word spread to French trappers, hunters, and traders who became familiar and interest was stirred up.

In 1803, this area joined the United States of America with the purchase of the Louisiana Territory from France.  President Thomas Jefferson wrote to William Dunbar of Natchez, Mississippi about leading a scientific and exploratory expedition along with Dr. George Hunter, a Philadelphia chemist.  They set out on October 16, 1804.   With 12 inches of snow on the ground in December, it was unfavorable for widespread botanical research.  The party camped at the hot springs and wrote extensively about their analysis.  Dunbar reported to President Jefferson that "...the hot springs themselves are indeed a great curiosity..." and studied the animal and plant life that live in and close to the hot spring pools.   One of the most important discoveries was a source of rock suitable for whetstones for knife sharpening.  It was a marketable resource in the area and justified return trips.

In 1832, the federal government took the unprecedented step of setting aside four sections of land here and it became the first U.S. reservation created to protect a natural resource.  By 1877, when land boundary disputes were settled, the federal government took active control for the first time approving blueprints for private bathhouses ranging from simple to luxurious.  Because minorities did not have equal access, African Americans opened their own facilities beginning in 1905.  The government even operated a free bathhouse and public health facility for those unable to pay for baths recommended by their physician.  Seeking health and luxury was available to all people.

By 1921, the Hot Springs Reservation became the 18th national park.  It is different from all other national parks because it's the oldest area in the National Park System and was declared to be an area set aside for all the people in the United States back in 1832.  Hot Springs was the first protected land 40 years before Yellowstone was named a national park.  Hot Springs National Park is the 1st Commemorative Quarter in the series that began in 2010 to celebrate 100 years of the national parks system.

Health Benefits:  Springs, hot or cold, were important to people long ago because they were used like medicine back then.  Doctors would recommend different spas for illnesses just like they write prescriptions for bottled pills today.  "Taking the Waters" in the "Valley of Vapors" was said to help people with rheumatism (today's arthritis).  There are many anecdotes and the reputation to cure anything and everything grew but scientific evidence comes up short other than hot water feels good and 4,000 year old pure rainwater that travels deep into the unique rock structures has lots of minerals we may need.  It is a great atmosphere for any detoxification process and the hot mineral waters promote the cleansing.

Today, Hot Springs National Park has nearly 5000 acres and is the smallest national park.  Exercise as a natural, regular activity is promoted as the park has a wonderful promenade along with a variety of walking/hiking trails in the area.  Appetite can be minimal so food choices can be thoughtful and healthy.  The bathing process promotes a "detoxification" especially if one does it at least three days in a row as I have found.  Of course, drinking the water so fresh out of the ground all day, every day, is optimum!  There's plenty of information sources available for more detail but I try not to over-think it.  My experiences tell me all I need to know.  Those citizens that live nearby are very fortunate to experience it all on a regular basis.

Fresh hot spring water is available to the public for free all hours every day on Bathhouse Row located on Central Avenue.  There is a parking lot available where one can fill a carload of personal containers, if wanted!  Parking for tourists is available across the street; some for free in a parking garage and some to pay on ground level street front.

Green boxes cover most of the 47 springs to prevent contamination behind Bathhouse Row which fronts Central Avenue; all located in the National Park.  

Bathhouse Row fronting Central Avenue has eight restored buildings of which the Buckstaff is the only one that provides the traditional therapeutic bathing experience.  The Quapaw offers modern-day spa with coed pools and spa services.  Both are privately operated businesses regulated and inspected by the National Park Service.  The Ozark has been the Cultural Center since 2014 closing its doors as a bathhouse in 1977.  The Lamar closed in 1988 and reopened as the Bathhouse Row Emporium, the official bookstore in the park in 2011.  The Maurice, Hale, and Superior have had various businesses such as a brewery, ice cream parlor, and still under remodeling.  The Fordyce is the main Visitor's Center. 

Various open springs and the Arlington Cascade above Arlington Lawn show how the area looked 200 years ago before anyone built a bathhouse.  All the steam gave rise to the vicinity's nickname, "Valley of Vapors."

During the Golden Age of Bathing over a million visitors a year immersed themselves in the park's hot waters.  Then they strolled Bathhouse Row with cups to "quaff the elixir" at decorative fountains.

At the end of Bathhouse Row is the Park Administration building.  The streets are lined with wonderfully fragrant magnolia trees and the magnolia emblem can be seem in many ways as a symbol for Bathhouse row.  The beautiful landscapes and rock structures inspired us for ideas in our own yard.  

Directly behind the Park administration building is the Hot Springs Rehabilitation Center; formally the Army/Navy Hospital.  Its use of the hot spring water for treatments contributed to a boost in the bathing business during and immediately after WWII.  By the 1950's changes in medicine led to a rapid decline in the use of water therapies.  The isolated location of Hot Springs, Arkansas, had been traveled to by train as a single destination.  As more people began taking driving vacations, the businesses declined, one by one, then closed in the 1960s except for the Buckstaff which was continuous until 1985.  The National Park Service began a revitalization of the bathhouses and in the 1980s.  In 2004, the park received the first of several appropriations to make the bathhouses leasable.
They are available for lease under the Historic Property Leasing Program.  This is an example of merging the needs of the future with the preservation of the past, essential to the revitalization of the Bathhouse Row National Historic Landmark District and downtown Hot Springs.

The Fordyce Bathhouse was the largest and most luxurious bathhouse that was in operation 1915-1962.  Since 1989, it has served as the park visitor center.  The interior features marble walls and stairs, terracotta fountains, stained glass skylights and windows, a wood-paneled coed gymnasium, and private staterooms.  23 rooms have been restored as they appeared in the heyday of the spa and the public can self-tour or be guided through several floors here.  This would be the best place to start when you come to visit!  

Coed Gymnasium on top floor of the Fordyce Bathhouse (display only)

On the other side of Central Avenue parallel to Bathhouse Row are many wonderfully unique shops to visit.  Here is one of the many rock shops.  There are many attractions to be found including area "duck" tours, art galleries, gangster museums, wax museums, restaurants and specialty food shops, variety of clothing and jewelry shops.  Check the Visitor's Center for current schedules of events and businesses.  

Behind the Arlington Hotel is a trail going uphill that allows some peace and quiet close to our room so Bobi Kitty can relax and be in a more natural environment for pets.

The Arlington Hotel on Central Avenue across the street from Hot Springs National Park

The Arlington Hotel front steps

The Arlington Hotel porch facing southwest viewing the street

The Arlington Hotel porch facing southeast viewing the Arlington Lawn

Bobi Kitty facing his reflection in the revolving door!

Arlington Hotel front lobby

Arlington Hotel view of front lobby from 2nd story balcony

Arlington Hotel Dining Room

Arlington Hotel stairway (on either side of lobby) going to the lower level shopping mall

Bobi Kitty in our room where he was most comfortable!

Basic Bathing Process:  We like to stay at the Arlington Hotel where we can also have the water in our room for baths in between the daily trips to the 3rd floor bathhouse.  It is good to be able to return to your room shorty after the experience and lay down to rest quietly or sit on the beautiful large porch outside in front facing the street observing the world as it goes by with a glass of wine.  So many choices!  It all begins through this door....




1.  Make an appointment.  Typically the bath experience alone is $35 and a massage afterward adds another $35.

2.  Check in at the front desk; you can pay here or bill to room. 

3.  You will be given a new loofah mitt, receipt, and a card with the name of your attendant.

4.  Depending on how busy it is, you will be escorted to sit inside the gender-specific section until your attendant is available in a few minutes or you may go directly to the dressing/locker room.

5.  Disrobe completely and wrap a large sheet around you toga-style or use a terry towel wrap that snaps in front.  Lock up your things and wear the key on your wrist.  You are escorted to a private bathing area.

6.  Your attendant will have your hot bath almost full and will help you get in safely.  There's a large and powerful motorized whirlpool machine on the foot end to move the water around you.

7.  Your attendant will make sure you are comfortable and give you a couple cups of hot water to drink.  She will check-in on you at least once during the 10-15 minutes you are soaking.  At the end of the time she will come in and scrub the tops of your legs, arms, and back with your soaped-up loofah mitt.  You will get out with her help and wrap back up before leaving this tub room with your toga or terry wrap.

8.  Next is a sauna to continue the detox process.  Drink ice water in the sauna.  Stay in the sauna about 5 minutes; ask that your attendant come get you as you do not want to get out and start cooling down waiting for her to do the next step.  If you get too hot, get out and call for her.  I have done that a time or two then jump back in the sauna until she comes.  You are still wearing your toga or terry wrap.

9.  The attendant guides you to a hot pack table which is in an open room with many others.  Here you will lay on your back (body still hot) where the attendant wraps each arm and leg in hot wet towels. Hot towels are placed on your belly and your whole body is covered with a hot dry sheet or blanket.  There is a cool towel wrapped around your face but open enough for you to breath.  This cool towel may be changed 1-2 times during your 10-15 minutes here.  Good time to relax or nap.

10.  The attendant comes and unwraps you except for your toga or terry wrap.  You are guided to the needle shower individual stall.  Here you take off everything in this private area and allow a cool down with tiny streams of cool water from head to toe.  The attendant comes back and helps you dry off and gives you a towel for you to do your private areas.  

11.  Your attendant will now take you to a cooling off lounge with comfortable chairs that likely has other ladies around doing the same thing.  You can read magazines or visit and continue to drink cool water until you are ready to leave or get a massage which is extra.  If you leave you will go back to the dressing/locker room and get your things.  There is usually a grooming area with hair dryers and products.  It is customary to tip your attendant as you leave.  This whole experience takes about an hour.

12.  I like massage and have been getting them regularly since the late 1990s.   It is an added benefit to the detox process as well as many other health benefits.  A basic 20-minute Swedish massage is an extra $35 and a new attendant will come to the cooling off lounge when she is ready for you.  You will still be in your toga or terry wrap at this point and lay on the massage table nude in a darkened room with a sheet over you.  Lotion is used and it is up to you to mention the degree of pressure you want and also to let them know of any surgeries or areas of concern before they start.  You will be told when it is over and escorted back to the dressing/locker area.  It is customary to tip again as you leave.  Drink some hot tea or water often afterward.

I can usually tell that the detox process is working when after about the third day, there is an overall lightness in my body, a clarity of mind, lots of urine elimination that gets lighter in color every day.  Appetite decreases and the desire to walk in the fresh air is overwhelming!  The calm and peace of mind stays longer.  The quality of sleep is improved.  The way I feel is something I want to keep as long as possible and I don't want to do any of the things that make it go away such as excesses in food, drink, sugar, or any behaviors that stress me out.  I especially find that I repel negative thoughts and people.  

This couldn't have come at a more needed time to detox from all the negativity of the 2016 national elections the week before I was to be the Democratic Supervisor of the Hermitage Election Polls where I had to deal with all the people of my precinct and help them to get their vote cast.  Amazingly, when it turned out that most of the people and issues I voted for lost, I still had most of the calm and positive attitude that I had when I left Arkansas the week before!  I think that is a very good testament to the benefits of the "taking of the waters!"