Big Niangua River Trail Maiden Voyage

"Take nothing but photos, 

Leave nothing but paddle wakes, 

Kill nothing but time."

August 26, 2014 was the first time Missouri Master Naturalists set out together to mark the points of interest established for the proposed Big Niangua River Trail.  Niangua translates to "Big Winding Stream of Many Springs" by the Indigenous Osage People.  This project is jointly sponsored by Lake of the Ozarks Watershed Alliance (LOWA), the Missouri Department of Natural Resources Division of State Parks, the Lake of the Ozarks Chapter of the Missouri Master Naturalist Program, and Ameren Missouri.

Although this trail starts at Ha Ha Tonka State Park and goes up river instead of down river, either end can be a put-in site.  The total distance is 11.5 miles from the Kayak Steps at Ha Ha Tonka to the Whistle Bridge.  It is partly a flat water trail and the boundary between Lake of the Ozarks and Big Niangua River will be one of the 20 points of interest that will be posted with a sign because harvest regulations differ above and below this point from the standpoint of fishing.  Currently, the final draft of the brochure, the information sign boards, and the actual points of interest signs on each site are in the final stages and likely will be ready and in place for the public late 2014 or early in 2015.  This Maiden Voyage by the Missouri Master Naturalists was to visually determine the best locations for the signs at the interest points and mark them with a bright pink plastic tie until the metal signs are completed.  Also, permission letters to place the signs are being mailed to property owners.  Many photos and notes were also obtained before the final drafts are made.  It was a productive and fun seven hours on a beautiful, hot summer day for the 14 kayakers!

Here is some of the information we have so far which shows the points of interest in bold type followed by a music photo album I made for fun for our Maiden Voyage:

The Whistle Bridge is a low water crossing and is considered an access point but there is no public parking.  For this trip, we skipped this point and put-in at the west side of Mother Nature's Campground 2 miles from the Whistle Bridge going north which is down river.  There are two good fishing holes, Nettle Hole and Flat Rock Hole before the second access point of Mother Nature's Campground on the east side of the peninsula; all owned by the campground.

The first stop we made and got out was at Tunnel Cave.  This cave is a natural cave system connecting one part of a loop in the Niangua to a second part of the loop almost seven miles down river.  When the cave was flooded to generate electricity with Tunnel Dam, too many side passages provided too many leaks and a new tunnel for generating electricity had to be drilled.

Tunnel Dam and Gauge House was constructed in 1929 and is located about 6.5 miles downstream from Tunnel Dam.  Water from the lake arrives at the powerhouse through an 800 foot-long tunnel constructed through the ridge.  There's a 40' drop in elevation from the lake surface to the powerhouse which contains two hypo-turbines capable of producing three megawatts.  The old gauge tower, located .3 miles downstream from the powerhouse was decommissioned in 1969.

There is an outcrop of large dolomite boulders extending out from the left bank of the river providing a significant eddy downstream and is a good place to catch bass and the occasional walleye.  It is known as Susie Rocks.  The story behind the name remains a mystery.

In the 1800s-1900s, settlers cut lumber for railroad ties.  The Tie Bank and Wetland Area is where rafts of ties were launched into the river on their way to market.  Up to 50,000 ties were stacked at one time and sent down the river as rafts up to 2500 ties.  The cutters were often paid in scrips or IOU bills for the stores owned by the tie buyers.

For a little excitement, the left-hand channel at this split in the river provides a short, narrow, fast-flowing, and somewhat tricky chute.  It is known as the Gauntlet.  There is only room for one water craft at a time so be sure to listen for jet boats before entering.

A good time for a break would be Casa de Loco Winery.  It has a very interesting history you can ask the staff about whether you take-out and hike up the hill or drive here off Highway 54.  Kayaks and canoes are available to rent as well as shuttle service.  For more information see their website:  casadelocowinery.com 

Rodgers Ford was designated as a "populated place" in the 1800s with a scattering of buildings and permanent population.  It later was designated as part of the area, Hahatonka quadrant, and was abandoned.  Slough Area is a smaller, alternate channel for the river to follow often formed during flood times as the river cuts new paths.  On the Niangua, sloughs generally are found in areas of islands and are often narrow and provide good fishing.  Next is the Boundary LOZ and BRN which is the accepted boundary between Lake of the Ozarks and the Big Niangua River.  

Rooffener Tie Slide is a bluff where the remains of a chute where logs were cut and slid down the hill to the river.  The forests were heavily cut in the late 19th century for railroad ties.  Woodlands Park Landscape is part of Ha Ha Tonka State Park.  It has three primary natural communities that work together to form a harmonious mosaic that stretches for over 3700 acres.  These three communities: dry chert woodland, dolomite glade, and upland flat woods represent some of the best remaining examples of these environments in Missouri.

Wetland Area is a good observation point for water birds including herons, osprey, ducks, and geese.  Aquatic life includes turtles, carp, gar, and gar.  The vegetation includes rose mallow, lizard tails, Paw Paws, and an assortment of sedges and rushes.  Wetlands are the beginning of the food chain with invertebrates which clean the water and are food for fish and other water species.

Onyx Cave entrance is right on the river and is easily accessed by boaters who can float about 70' into the cave.  Onyx mining in Missouri caves was tried as an industry in the late 20th century and there is some interesting history here…not so much onyx though.

Another outdoor venue is Sugar Loaf Winery with good access from the river and also by vehicle off Highway 54.  Good food and wine are available as well as kayak rentals and shuttle services.  It is just upstream from the Ha Ha Tonka State Park and would be a great destination in itself if parked at Ha Ha Tonka and putting in at the Kayak Steps and return.  For more information about what the winery has to offer see their website:  sugarloafwinery.com

At Spencer Creek and Bank Branch Creek, two spring fed creeks combine with Ha Ha Tonka spring which add depth and clarity to the water.  Larger boats have difficulty navigating because of the shallow water and submerged logs.  Between 1830 and 1835, a gang of counterfeiters operated in this area using the steep terrain and local caves to hide their operations.  Bank Branch was named because this is where they deposited their counterfeit money aboard barges for the trip East.